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Saturday, January 20, 2007

Sahara sand & Salad Language

The adventure had begun in Marrakech but really got going in the desert !



Err - there are times to do things & there are time to not. We put ourselves under a little more pressure than we'd bargained for en-route to the desert, by stopping off in Erfoud, 50kms from Hassi Labiad (our destination right next to Erg Chebbi) & miss judging when night fall would hit us.



We'd crossed the rock desert from the Toudra Gorge via a lesser know road & one not mentioned in the Lonely planet guide. The road was metalled & safe, we'd not have taken it but for the Dutch tour guide's recommendation at Le Festival. At one point we were flagged down by a hitcher but Ems had read not to pick them up as they are often faux & end up being dope sellers. I heeded her advice & we kept going.......Anyway, back to the story. As is always the case I spent far too long on the computer writing up the blog; due mainly to the time it takes to upload the pictures. We set finally off from Erfoud at 5.30.

We sped quickly towards our destination following the Lonely Planet map. The metalled road to Hassi Labiad ran out onto dirt track 25kms along our route. The car leapt from tarmac to dirty in a cloud of dust & we slowed our pace to compensate for the poorer road surface. 2 mins later the road gave out entirely & we were forced to navigate left off route & seemingly off piste. I switched the lights on full beam & we progressed via the green & white piste markers. It was now dark & there were a number of different routes to choose from, all were invisible & none on our trusted guide - Ahh !

Out of the dark appeared a lad on an old, shaky & decrepit pink mountain bike. I cobbled together enough french as to where we wanted to go to Mustafa, a local nomad lad, who was cycling home from Merzouga. We were preparing ourselves to turn around when a tourist mini bus, also heading in the opposite direction stopped & vouched that Mustafa could guide us through to our destination through the soft sand that lay between us & the road we needed (& indeed had thought we were on!)

I made a decision & took his offer of 150dhm to guide us through the night & the soft sands to Hassi Labiad. Ems hopped in the back & said absolutely nothing the entire journey. My heart was in my mouth as we sped through the night cutting left then right at a speed that meant we'd not get bogged down & caught up in the desert.



My heart only calmed down once I saw convergent headlights from the right. We returned to the alternative metalled road & passed through the above gates pictured (on our return). I believe Ems's heart calmed down only once we'd checked-in & we were firmly inside our room. I lightened the atmosphere with my above Borat impression & blocked out our window with my travel towel, black sticky tape & an apparantly handsome moustache. The tape worked so well it took the paint off the wall! Ems's is now investigating it's hair removal properties & currently has it stuck to her legs - Dad'll be oh so proud of pop's lasting family legacy.

& so to the main feature..... the reason we'd braved & tempted so much.

Into the desert






Apologies but again we're starving so will finish describing our desert trip another time - suffice to say it was an amazingly personal & fun experience that you'll just HAVE to put on your own to do list ! Just make sure it's off season otherwise you'll end up sharing the supposed peace with 50 odd noisy Spanish in summer time or 1000 other fun seekers over the New Year _ not my bag my friend !


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